Overview: How to make bias tape
| Step 1: Find the true bias. |
| Step 2: Cut the strips. |
| Step 3: Join the strips. |
| Step 4 (with a bias tape maker): Feed your fabric strip through the bias tape maker while pressing with an iron. |
| Step 4 (without a bias tape maker): Fold both long edges of the strip toward the center and press with an iron. |
Overview: How to sew bias tape
| Step 1: Clip or pin along the edge. |
| Step 2: Sew the first edge. |
| Step 3: Wrap and sew. |
What is bias tape?
Bias tape is a strip of fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain, which makes it stretchy and perfect for wrapping around curved edges.
What is bias tape used for?
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Finishing raw edges on necklines, armholes, and hems.
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Adding decorative trim to garments and quilts.
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Creating drawstring casings.
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Reinforcing seams.
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Making straps and ties.
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Adding durability: bias-cut binding is estimated to reduce seam stress by 30–40% compared to straight-grain binding (source: Ningbo MH).
Did you know? In commercial garment manufacturing, using high-quality finishes on curved hems and necklines is estimated to elevate the perceived value of a product by 10–15% (source: Ningbo MH).
What is the difference between seam binding and bias tape?
Seam binding is cut straight on the grain and works best for flat edges, while bias tape is cut on the diagonal so it can stretch and bend around curves.
The difference between bias tape vs. binding vs. facing
Bias tape
Bias tape is the fabric strip cut on the diagonal that you buy or make yourself to finish edges.
Bias binding
Bias binding is the method where you fold bias tape around a raw edge and stitch it down to encase and finish it.
Bias facing
Bias facing is a wider strip of bias-cut fabric sewn to the wrong side of a garment edge, then turned and pressed so it doesn't show from the outside.
Single fold vs. double fold
Single fold has the edges pressed toward the center once, while double fold is pressed in half again so one side is narrower than the other.
Single fold bias tape
- What is single fold bias tape? Single fold bias tape has both long edges folded toward the middle crease, creating a flat strip with no raw edges showing.
- When to use it: Use single fold when you need to make your own double fold tape, want to create custom piping, or need to apply binding with more control over the width.
Double fold bias tape
- What is double fold bias tape? Double fold bias tape is folded in half lengthwise after the initial folds, so one side is slightly wider than the other for easier application.
- When to use it: Use double fold when you want a quick way to finish edges like quilt bindings, necklines, or armholes without having to fold the tape yourself.
What is maxi piping?
Maxi piping is extra-wide piping (usually 1/2 inch or larger) that creates a bold, chunky decorative trim on pillows, cushions, and upholstery.
Store-bought vs. homemade bias tape
Store-bought bias tape is convenient and comes ready to use, while homemade bias tape lets you choose any fabric you want and can save money on larger projects.
When should you use store-bought (pre-made) bias tape?
Use store-bought bias tape when you need a small amount, want to save time, or need a standard color that matches your project perfectly.
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Single fold bias tape is typically sold in: ½", ⅞", 1" finished
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Double fold bias tape is typically sold in: ¼", ⅜", ½", ¾" finished
Satin vs. cotton vs. polyester bias tape
Satin bias tape has a shiny finish for formal projects, cotton is breathable and easy to work with for everyday sewing, and polyester is durable and holds up well to washing.
When should you make your own bias tape?
Make your own bias tape when you need a specific fabric pattern, need a large quantity, or want to match the exact color of your main fabric.
Expert tip: I make my own bias tape for almost all my clothing projects because store-bought tape rarely matches your fabric color and weight perfectly, which makes a huge difference in how professional your garment looks.
Is it cheaper to make or buy bias tape?
Making bias tape is cheaper if you need a lot of it or already have fabric scraps, but buying it makes more sense for small projects where you'd only use a yard or two.
How to make bias tape
Making bias tape involves cutting fabric strips on the diagonal, joining them together, and folding the edges inward to create finished tape.
Step 1: Find the true bias
Fold your fabric so the straight grain edge lines up with the crossgrain edge, and the diagonal fold you create is the true bias at a 45-degree angle.
Step 2: Cut the strips
Cut strips parallel to the bias fold line, making them four times the width you want your finished bias tape to be.
Related article: The Best Fabric Scissors for Every Sewing Project
Step 3: Join the strips
Place two strip ends right sides together at a right angle, sew diagonally across the corner, and trim the excess to create one long continuous strip.
Step 4 (option 1): With a bias tape maker
Feed your fabric strip through the bias tape maker while pressing with an iron, and the tool automatically folds the edges inward as the fabric comes through.
What is a bias tape maker?
A bias tape maker is a small metal or plastic tool that automatically folds the edges of your fabric strip inward as you pull it through and press with an iron, making the process much faster and more consistent than folding by hand.
Step 4 (option 2): Without a bias tape maker (finger pressing)
Fold both long edges of the strip toward the center and press with an iron, working in sections and using your fingers to hold the folds in place before pressing.
How to sew bias tape (bias binding)
Sewing bias tape involves pinning it around your raw edge, stitching down one side, wrapping it around to the other side, and stitching again to secure it.
Step 1: Clip or pin along the edge
Open up the bias tape and line up one folded edge with your fabric's raw edge, then pin or clip it in place all the way around.
Step 2: Sew the first edge
Sew along the crease line where the bias tape was folded, removing pins as you go and keeping your stitches straight.
Related article: The Best Sewing Machine for Every Skill Level in 2026
Step 3: Wrap and sew
Fold the bias tape over the raw edge to the other side, pin it down, and stitch close to the folded edge to secure the binding.
How to calculate how much fabric to cut for bias tape
Measure the total length you need to bind, add a few extra inches for seams and corners, then divide your fabric width by the strip width to figure out how many strips you can cut and how much yardage you'll need.
Reminder: Bias tape is cut on the diagonal (45°). You’ll usually join multiple strips to reach the full length you need.
|
Bias Tape Type |
Finished Width |
Cut Strip Width |
Equation (Fabric Needed) |
Example |
|
Single Fold |
½” |
1” |
Total length ÷ usable strip length = number of strips |
Need 120” of bias tape. Fabric width = 42” usable. 120 ÷ 42 = 2.86 → 3 strips |
|
Double Fold |
½” |
2” |
Total length ÷ usable strip length = number of strips |
Need 120” of bias tape. Fabric width = 42” usable. 120 ÷ 42 = 2.86 → 3 strips |
How to add a safety margin when cutting bias tape
After calculating your fabric needs, add an extra 10–15% to allow for seams, joins, and trimming (for example: 6" becomes about 7").
Expert tip: Most sewing patterns include a pattern piece specifically for cutting bias tape, so you won't need to do these calculations yourself unless you're drafting your own pattern.
Shop beginner sewing patterns.
Troubleshooting common bias tape mistakes
Most bias tape problems come from cutting at the wrong angle, stretching the fabric while sewing, or using fabric that's too thick or thin for your project.
Mistake 1: Not cutting at the correct angle
If you don't cut at a true 45-degree angle, your bias tape won't stretch around curves properly and will look puckered or twisted.
Mistake 2: Stretching the tape
Pulling or stretching the bias tape while you sew will make your edges wavy and rippled instead of smooth and flat.
Mistake 3: Missing the back of the tape
If your stitching doesn't catch the back fold of the bias tape, it won't be secured and will flop open or come loose after washing.
Mistake 4: Using the wrong fabric weight
Using fabric that's too heavy makes bulky binding that won't fold nicely, while fabric that's too thin won't hold its shape or provide enough coverage.
Mistake 5: Twisted seams
When joining bias strips, if you don't align them at right angles before sewing, the seam will twist and create a bump in your finished tape.
Specialized bias binding methods
There are several advanced techniques for applying bias tape that give you cleaner finishes, easier application, or different looks depending on your project needs.
The Continuous Loop method
The continuous loop method involves sewing your fabric into a tube before cutting, which lets you create one long spiral strip of bias tape without joining multiple pieces.
The Hong Kong finish
The Hong Kong finish wraps a thin strip of bias tape around each seam allowance separately to encase the raw edges, giving you a clean inside finish on unlined garments.
The Wider Back trick
The wider back trick means positioning the bias tape so the back fold is slightly wider than the front, making it easier to catch both sides when you sew from the front.
The Mitered Corner method
Sewing a mitered corner means folding the bias tape at a 45-degree angle at the corner point, which creates a neat diagonal fold instead of bunching or puckering.
When would you sew a Mitered Corner?
Sew a mitered corner when you're binding square or rectangular edges like placemats, quilt corners, or necklines with sharp angles where you want a clean, professional finish.
FAQ
Can I use bias tape on stretchy (knit) fabric?
Yes, you can use bias tape on knit fabric, and it actually works well because the diagonal cut gives the tape enough stretch to move with the knit without breaking stitches.
Is bias tape the same as hem tape?
No, bias tape is cut on the diagonal and used to bind edges, while hem tape is usually straight-grain fusible webbing that you iron in place to create quick hems.
Can you use bias tape instead of hemming?
Yes, you can use bias tape instead of a traditional hem, and it's especially helpful on curved edges, sheer fabrics, or when you want to add a decorative finish.
Do I have to pre-wash my bias tape?
You should pre-wash bias tape if you're going to wash your finished project, because unwashed tape can shrink and pucker your binding after the first wash.
Why is my bias tape 'roping' or twisting?
Bias tape ropes or twists when you stretch it while sewing, use too much tension on your machine, or cut it off-grain instead of at a true 45-degree angle.
How to join the ends of bias tape neatly in a circle
Leave both ends un-sewn with a few inches of overlap, trim them to meet at a 45-degree angle, sew them together right sides facing, then press the seam open and finish sewing the binding down.
My bias tape neckline is gaping/sticking out?
Your neckline is probably gaping because you stretched the bias tape while sewing or didn't ease it slightly around the curve, so try again with less tension and let the tape relax naturally around the neckline.
